2 x c303 + volvo emblem 1974 - wechsel zur deutschen sprache

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fueltank and surrounding on the Volvo C30x

removing the tank: why

On the most Volvo C30x the fueltank is positioned between frame, back axle and rear bumper, which is part of the frame itself. My tank did look quite good, only some little scratches were rusty and the fuel line a little bit more. Why should I remove it?

Unfortunately the frame is not looking as good as the tank, just around the rear axle some parts are quite rusty. Some parts of the frame are not in reach or hidden by the tank. It is much more easy to repair the frame if the tank is removed. Ok, tear it off!

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prerequisites

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fuel filler

The filler for the petrol looks really old fashioned, but you can get fuel in even if you lost the lip 0 for the jerrycan: Just pitch it into the big opening. But it looks as if the car was constructed completely before someone got the idea to fill in more fuel after a while. Then the construction plan got a "patch"...

Under the lid is a spring, which presses a big rubber seal onto the seam of the filler. That seals the filler very well. At the side of the filler is the connection for the hose to the top of the tank, this is a hose with 19 mm diameter, something less than a meter long. Above this connection is a little hole of about 1 mm for the tank to breathe.


The filler is mounted with two sheet-metal screws on the rear bumper. That is not very good, if the screws are keyed up they should be replaced by screws with real threads and a real thread in the bumper. In addition there is the connected hose for the overflow and the main connection to the tank, where a thick rubber hose runs straight through a sealed hole in the frame.

On the pictures I have removed the mud flaps, where the tube from the filler runs through a hole in in the upper part of the flaps. You can see: the rear bumper is open on both sides, you should spill out the dirt with a garden hose to have no wet corners left for the rust inside.

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mount points

On the front of the fuel tank are two screws on the right and on the left, which run through a bracket on the frame and which gets the right tension by to springs. Removal is possible only from below with a ratchet and extension for the nut.

On the back end of the tank are two screws in the middle, connected with a bridge. These ones can be removed from below only, too. The big hook is in the way and if you like to work with less obstacles you should remove the hook, too. If you remove the four short screws the hook and the holding plate will fall down automaticly from their slot in the frame.

The first hose clip to the filler tube can be opened easily, the second one near the tank is nearly unreachable. If you lay under the tank and have opened all 4 screws you can let it down a little bit tilted and tow the rubber hose, which is still connected to the tank, through the hole in the frame. Eventually the big washers for the hold are in the way, then you have to open the two long screws between fram and hold, too.

Here the removed tank with the parts for mounting. The inner side of my tank looked like new: White colour and two baffles in each direction, no rust inside. After letting the petrol flow out there was no rust and nearly no dirt in the filter. In this case I was so lucky not to have the tank cleaned and painted from the inside.

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result

On the left picture below you can see the between other things the newly painted tank in silver gray. On the right picture you can have an impression of the complete result. The hook is not yet mounted here.

Putting in the fuel tank is a little bit tricky and the best is to have a helping hand. You have to move the tank with the already connected rubber hose a little bit tilted into the frame and on the top there is a way for the hose of the overflow to be found, and this way is not really there by design.

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